I
had never heard of Gary Winogrand or indeed seen any of his work when
I first flicked through the pages of 'Man in the Crowd, The Uneasy
Streets of Gary Winogrand' but one thing was clear to me – he liked
women. Women of 1960s New York had discovered sexuality and were
embracing it and they had Winogrand's attention.
'Women
interest me – how they look, yes certainly how they look, and their
energy'
Winogrand
It
wasn't until after I'd picked up on this recurring subject that I
realised he had put together an entire book of images of women called
'Women are Beautiful'. This book is supposedly the only book that
Winogrand edited entirely himself. He had originally wanted to call
it 'Confessions of a Male Chauvinist Pig' but his publisher didn't
approve.
I
agree with Winogrand's publisher's decision. In my opinion there is
nothing chauvinistic about the way he photographed women. To me he was celebrating their beauty, their energy and the newfound
sense of sexuality and empowerment that the 60s had brought them.
Winogrand himself said, "I suspect
that I respond to their energies, how they stand and move their
bodies and faces. But what came first? Was it his love of the female
subject or was it that they suited his style as a photographer?
Winogrand,
the man in the crowd, was driven by the energy of the New York
street. The crowds facilitated his style of shooting. They allowed
him to get lost. More often than not, his subjects were unaware that
they were subjects and if they did notice, Winogrand's charm gained
their momentary trust and allowed him to capture them at their ease.
As a women myself, I can only imagine how I'd react if I discovered a
complete stranger taking my photo as I walked down Grafton Street
trying to mind my own business. I suspect I would either be creeped
out or flattered. My guess is Winogrand succeeded in eliciting the
latter reaction in his subjects. I'm going to hazard a guess and say
that I doubt men of the 60s would have reacted as favorably to the
flirtatious winks of Winogrand.
Winogrand's
disregard for the importance of composition has been noted
repeatedly. When your go-to location is a busy city street and your
subject of desire is women rushing from one appointment, be it lunch,
hair or business-related to another, this seems a necessary move.
When watching a documentary recently on street photographer Bill
Cunningham, I could not help but notice the similarities in the
shooting methods of both photographers. Both photographers are drawn
to the women of New York – busy women with places to be.
When
watching both men at work, we can see them almost throwing the camera
to their face in an attempt to capture their subject. A mere
millisecond-length squint through the viewfinder is enough to ensure
their lense is pointed in the right direction. For them, the horizon
is mere background noise and the street, a mere backdrop. Both men
rarely had a preconceived idea of what they were looking for when
they embarked on a day of shooting, but rather, they let the street
speak to them. Both too are masters of the type of disguise necessary
to go unnoticed when taking a stranger's photo.
Stylish
women form the centre of Cunningham's photographic world. He is
unfazed by their social status or their rank in the fashion industry.
His only interest is what they chose to wear that day. Our eyes are
drawn to the bold prints, cuts and overall risque wardrobe choices of
Cunningham's women. Composition is not a concern.
Initially
I thought Winogrand's women were simply and straightforwardly,
beautiful women. However, it seems to me now, that he too was drawn
to the clothes they wore and the purpose they could serve in drawing
our eye to the particulars of each image that had captured his
attention in the first place. More often than not, Winogrand seemed
interested in clothes that were perhaps revealing a little too much
of the area they were intended to cover...shorts that had ridden up
uncomfortably on the wearer, a skirt being stretched across a women's
thigh as she walked, the neckline of a top that had moved slightly
too far in one direction.
In one case, it's the way in which a dress
is being blown against a woman's body, highlighting her pregnant
bump.
Indeed one may accuse Winogrand of being this self-labelled
'chauvinist pig' but on the other hand, we could look at it as though he was celebrating their beauty and appreciating that moment when the energy
of their movement allowed him and us a glimpse at their inherent
femininity.
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